History of the Caledonian Canal

Slicing through the Great Glen of the Scottish Highlands, Loch Lochy, Loch Oich, Loch Ness and Loch Dochfour lie in near-perfect alignment between Fort William and Inverness. Only relatively short artificial canals were required to link them together. The result? A 60-mile connection between western and eastern seawaters, with water supply guaranteed.

Various engineers were involved, but the names of William Jessop and Thomas Telford, who worked together until Jessop's death in 1814, usually head the plaudits for this spectacular feat of engineering - a feat in which their artistic inclinations were permitted to run riot. At more than 50 yards (46m) long, its locks were huge by the standards of the time. Many of them are arranged in 'staircases', interconnected locks in which the top gates of one lock are the bottom gates of the next.

The massive eight-lock flight at Banavie, known as Neptune's Staircase, is little short of breathtaking. The entire canal smacks of similar engineering feats on a grand scale, defying direct comparison with any other canal in Britain.

Its original purpose was to enable naval and other sailing vessels to avoid the treacherous Pentland Firth and Cape Wrath. Wildly overshooting Telford's estimates for both time and finances, it was partly complete in 1822, but a further 25 years were to pass before it was fully complete. By this time, the advent of bigger steamships had diminished the canal's role, and it was never a huge commercial success. It survived in part due to its importance in the Highland economy: indeed, it is still popular with cruisers, yachts and small naval vessels, eager to avoid the longer way round.

Although considered an inland navigation, the Caledonian Canal stands in a league of its own. At more than 750 feet (228m) the waters of Loch Ness are deeper than the North Sea and, quite apart from any concerns at encountering the eponymous monster, traversing it can be equivalent to a short sea-crossing – especially during inclement weather. In recent years improvements to lock operations and other modernisations have speeded passage and much has been done to promote the canal as a tourist attraction.

But it's not just canal history that you'll encounter on a journey along the Caledonian Canal. The Great Glen runs as a fault-line through Scottish culture and heritage, fought over for centuries and the scene of countless battles. Here are some of the locations worth exploring:

The Well of the Seven Heads

On returning from France in 1663, two members of the McDonnells of Keppoch were murdered by their uncle and his six sons during a family quarrel at a celebration. All those responsible were rounded up and beheaded, their severed heads being washed in the spring running into Loch Oich before being presented before the Chief in Invergarry Castle. This monument, erected in 1812 by a descendent of the MacDonnells, is possible the only one in the world to an act of treachery and vengeance!

Invergarry Castle

Situated on the shores of Loch Oich, this 17th century ruined castle was once the stronghold of the Clan MacDonnell. It was burned by Governement troops after the battle of Culloden in 1746 in retribution for the help given by McDonnell of Glengarry to Bonnie Prince Charlie. A distant descendant of that same chief lived in a mansion near the ruin, and was so displeased by the new canal that he went so far as to hold up the workmen and steal a boat! Even so, he was invited to the opening ceremony in 1822 at which he behaved impeccably!

The Dark Mile

A great place to hide, this wooded glen leading to Loch Arkaig is steeped in Jacobite legend after Prince Charlie escaped along its 'dark mile' from the Battle of Culloden.

Urquhart Castle

The magnificently situated Urquhart Castle, on the banks of Loch Ness, remains an impressive stronghold despite its ruinous state. Once one of Scotland’s largest castles, Urquhart’s remains include a tower house that commands splendid views of the famous loch and Great Glen.

Urquhart witnessed considerable conflict throughout its 500 years as a medieval fortress and its history from the 13th to 17th centuries was particularly bloody. Following Edward I’s invasion, it fell into English hands and was then reclaimed and lost again. In the 14th century, it figured prominently in the Scots’ struggle for independence and came under the control of Robert the Bruce after he became King of Scots. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the castle and glen were frequently raided from the west by the ambitious MacDonald Lords of the Isles.

The castle’s history and that of the noble families – Durward, MacDonald and Grant – who held it, is told in the exhibition and audio-visual display in the new Visitor Centre. The Centre features an outstanding array of medieval artefacts found at the castle.