Tunnels of love
The 'Tunnel of Love' at a fairground might be fun if you want to scare your loved one - but for the real deal on Valentine's Day, take him or her to one of Britain’s fifty canal tunnels.
It’s not just bats who can enjoy courting in these subterranean water passages, which astonished British society when they were first dug over 200 years ago. Almost all have a secluded country pub at the end, built to slake the thirst of the leggers who once propelled the boats through the tunnels by muscle power alone. And where there’s a tunnel, there’s a hill - so you’re likely to find romantic scenery, too.
Here are six of our favourite canal tunnels, each one perfect for an unusual Valentine’s Day surprise.
1. Sapperton Tunnel, near Cirencester
The 3808-yard tunnel at Sapperton, in the heart of the Cotswolds, has the most romantic setting of all.
Hewn through solid limestone, it’s not currently navigable - the Cotswold Canals were abandoned from the 1920s, and are only now being brought back to life. Nonetheless, it’s a magnificent sight nonetheless. The portals at each end are uniquely ornate, and next to each one is a marvellous country inn.
The Tunnel House Inn, at the Cirencester end, serves good food and has a delightfully idiosyncratic interior style - perfect for a secretive assignation in one of the many nooks and crannies. At the other end, the Daneway Inn is an unspoilt pub with excellent beer and peerless walking opportunities. Take a romantic stroll along the old canal line, following the locks down the Golden Valley.
2. Dudley Tunnel, near Birmingham
One of Britain’s longest canal tunnels, Dudley is not so much one tunnel as a subterranean maze. The network of tunnels here linked a range of enormous mining caverns - one of which was six times the size of St Paul’s Cathedral.
Today, you can take a trip into the tunnel and the famous Singing Cavern on the electric trip-boats that run most days of the year. You’ll need to be friendly with your partner, as you’ll be rubbing shoulders as you take a turn at ‘legging’ - the traditional method of propelling boats through tunnels. Then replenish your energy with an portion of authentic Black Country fish and chips from the Black Country Living Museum, on the same site.
3. Blisworth Tunnel, near Northampton
If you and your partner feel like taking a more relaxing boat trip through a Tunnel of Love, head for the historic canal village of Stoke Bruerne in Northamptonshire. Here, you can take a cruise on the Indian Chief passenger boat (Tel: 01604 862428), or hire a self-drive narrowboat for the afternoon from Blisworth Tunnel Boats (Tel: 01604 858868).
There’s plenty more to do in the village, including two canalside inns, the Canal Museum, and a selection of countryside walks.
4. Antonine Wall Tunnel, near Falkirk
Make your beloved dizzy with delight at Britain’s newest canal tunnel.
Delving under the Roman Antonine Wall, this new tunnel leads onto the spectacular Falkirk Wheel - the world’s first rotating boat lift. Book a boat trip through the wheel, and you’ll both enjoy spectacular views as you rise gently from the ground, followed by a journey through the brand new tunnel. An excellent visitor centre and cafe complete the day.
5. Maida Hill Tunnel, London
Just a few yards from chic Little Venice, this tunnel on the Regent’s Canal has the most romantic city setting of all. You can sit and watch the world go by in the cosmopolitan canalside cafe by the tunnel mouth, or take a Valentine’s towpath stroll past Regent’s Park to Camden Lock. Then enjoy a ride on one of the waterbuses that ply the canal between Little Venice and Camden, passing through the tunnel on the way.
6. Standedge Tunnel, near Huddersfield
Britain’s longest canal tunnel, Standedge is an astonishing 5698 yards long. Burrowing deep through the Pennine hills, it was reopened in 2001 after 50 years of closure.
For outdoor-minded couples, this is the best tunnel of all. You can prebook a ride on one of the regular boat convoys (Tel: 01484 844298), then hike back over the spectacular moorland scenery, cared for by the National Trust. Then snuggle up with a pint of real ale in Marsden’s acclaimed Riverhead Brewery Tap.
More top tunnels
- Netherton Tunnel, near Birmingham, is the longest canal tunnel with a towpath, and one of the last tunnels to be built.
- Harecastle Tunnel, near Stoke-on-Trent, was the first long tunnel to be built. To aid ventilation, boats are taken through in one-way convoys with an air pump in operation.
- Chirk Tunnel, near Wrexham, has the most dramatic setting of any tunnel. Immediately on leaving the tunnel, boats proceed onto a sturdy stone aqueduct across the River Ceiriog, with a later railway viaduct running alongside.
- Greywell Tunnel, near Basingstoke, is one of Europe’s most important bat refuges. Several rare species have made their home in the disused tunnel since it collapsed in 1934. Crystal-clear water makes this a real wildlife haven.
- Foulridge Tunnel, near Burnley, derives its notoriety from a remarkably athletic cow. The animal fell in the canal at one end of the tunnel - but instead of turning round and clambering out, it swam all the way through the mile-long tunnel until it reached the other end. Regulars at the Hole In The Wall pub revived the poor exhausted beast with brandy.