Pool of London

The Pool of London is the name given to the stretch of the Thames between Tower Bridge and London Bridge, which forms the upper limit of navigation for tall-masted craft. 19th century photographs show this deep water harbour crammed to overflowing, with cargo sailing ships moored six or eight deep.

These days usually the only boat moored is the WWII cruiser HMS Belfast (020 7940 6300), still decked out in her 'dazzle' camouflage, and open to the public as a fascinating adjunct to the Imperial War Museum (020 7416 5320) - itself only a mile away in Lambeth.

Go for a walk

The Pool of London is great just to walk around. Beginning at Monument (which can be climbed for a fabulous view) on the north bank (Tube: Monument), cross over London Bridge to the south bank (Tube: London Bridge) and walk east along the waterfront, past the Art Deco splendour of the Hays Wharf building, past the trendy shops in Hays Galleria - a former covered dry dock - and on to HMS Belfast.

Just beyond the Belfast you get a terrific view across and downriver of the Tower of London, immediately opposite, and the iconic silhouette of the 19th century lifting Tower Bridge.

Walking on, past the unstable-looking and rather diminutive glass shell outline of the new London Assembly Building, brings you to steps up to street level on Tower Bridge. Here stands the Tower Bridge Experience visitor centre (020 7403 3761), where you can see the steam engines that were originally used to power the lifting of the bridge. Despite the crowds it is still an experience to stand in the middle of the bridge looking upstream across the river to the Tower of London with the steel-and-glass towers of The City behind.

Waterside heritage

At the north side of Tower Bridge there are steps down to the Tower of London (020 7709 0765), which houses the Crown Jewels - as well as ravens and beefeaters. A little further on, a second set of steps gives access to a path that runs to the Tube. The remains of the Roman wall surrounding London can be seen near Tower Bridge tube station.

The Pool of London is just one stretch of a fabulous south-bank Thames-side walk from Tower Bridge all the way to Westminster Bridge. Here the unique South Bank arts and leisure complex includes both Shakespeare's Globe Theatre (020 7902 1400) and The National Theatre complex (020 7452 3000), the Tate Modern (020 7887 8000), The Haywood Gallery (020 7960 5226), the Royal Festival Hall including Queen Elizabeth Hall & The Purcell Rooms (020 7921 0600), the National Film Theatre (020 7928 3232), the bfi London IMAX Theatre (020 7902 1234), the London Eye (0870 500 0600), the London Aquarium (020 7967 8000) and the new Saatchi Gallery (020 7823 2363).

Just east of Tower Bridge to the south is Butler's Wharf with its narrow cobbled streets, up-market gift shops and waterfront restaurants and bars. The Design Museum (020 7940 8790) is here also. On the north side, facing Butler's Wharf is St Katharine's Dock, now a substantial marina with a few shops and chandlery.

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