Wapping
Wapping was the landing point for generations of sailors and the setting for many of Dickens' novels.
Nearest tube: Wapping
Today it is famed firstly for its historic pubs, and secondly for the luxury apartments which have brought a new lease of life to Wapping's old warehouses.
Captain Kidd
Address: 108 Wapping High Street, Wapping
E1W 2NE
T: 020 7480 5759
Housed in a warehouse conversion, this pub cum restaurant is named after the naval officer turned pirate who was hanged at Execution Dock nearby in 1701. The old pulley in the bar dates from warehouse days. A beer garden overlooks the Thames, and there is a room for hire. The bar food will cost a fiver or so, or you can dine in the a la carte restaurant for about £18 a head.
Il Bordello
Address: 81 Wapping High Street
E1W 2YN
T: 020 7481 9950
History does not relate how this Italian restaurant acquired its name, but its helpful Turkish manager is unlikely to allow anything improper to interrupt your meal. Food is traditional pizzas and pastas, with fish getting a look in. Closed Saturday lunchtime. Average food price per head £20.
Prospect of Whitby
Address: 57 Wapping Wall
E1W 3SH
T: 020 7481 1095
London's oldest riverside tavern started life in 1520 as The Devil's Tavern. Today's name comes from a collier
bringing coal from the Tyne which used to tie up alongside. The fine views, much appreciated by the many visitors, were sketched in earlier times by Turner and Whistler. Gardeners may like to know that all fuchsias in Britain are descended from one brought to the Prospect in 1780 by a sailor back from the Caribbean, who parted with it for a noggin of rum (a quarter of a pint). There is an extensive bar menu with dishes at £5-£6. The Restaurant offers more substantial meals for about £20. Wines are modestly priced, with a wide choice also available by the glass.
River View Chinese Restaurant
Address: 16 New Crane Place
E1W 3TU
T: 020 7480 6026
Not so long ago, if you wanted to combine eating seafood Chinese cuisine with spectacular views over water, you had to go to Hong Kong. Now you can go to River View in Wapping. There are plenty of non-seafood dishes as well. Meals work out at about £20 a head, although you can go higher if you are in the mood: the Chef's Choice set meal for four or more people is £35 per person, and includes crispy duck, fresh lobster, steamed sea bass and a great deal more.
Smollensky's
Address: Hermitage Wharf
E1W 1NJ
T: 020 7680 1818
Stunning views towards Tower Bridge from this popular American bar and grill. The emphasis is on steaks, but there is also a wide choice of fish and vegetarian dishes, with leisurely brunches served at weekends. Or go the whole hog, so to speak, with the 24 ounce New York rib of beef. Expect to pay about £20 a head. The wine list strikes a balance between the New World and the Old.
The Wharf (Wapping)
Address: 75 Wapping High Street
E1W 2YN
T: 020 7702 9559
A cocktail bar-cum-Thai restaurant. Prices are reasonable, e.g. £4.50 for most cocktails and £5.50 for a champagne cocktail. The Thai food is helpfully marked out for hotness, and short English descriptions are appended to each item on the menu.
Town of Ramsgate
Address: 62 Wapping High Street
E1W 2PN
T: 020 7481 8000
There has been a pub on this site since the 15th Century. In the 19th Century, it came to be called the Town of Ramsgate after the fishermen who landed their catches at Wapping Old Stairs. Those Old Stairs are still next door, and you can see the post to which the bodies of hanged pirates were chained and then left for three tides to wash over them. Today's pub is a friendly one serving traditional food at modest prices.
Wapping Food
Address: Wapping Hydraulic Power Station, Wapping Wall
E1W 3ST
T: 020 7680 2080
Hydraulic power was once pumped from here to the West End to operate lifts in Piccadilly Circus tube station. Today, the machinery is silent, unlike the cheerful modern Wapping residents who crowd the place in the evening. Portions are substantial, the influence is Spanish, and the chef takes full advantage of Billingsgate Fish Market being up the road. Wines, apart from champagnes, are all Australian. Starters are £6-£8, main courses £12-£15. House wines are around £15. Grange 1995 is £350. Yes, Docklands has definitely come up in the world. Friendly service. Must book evenings. Warning to gents: don't mistake the long stainless steel hand basin for the you know-what: it's easily done.
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